. Mombasa .

Last week we were in Mombasa, just returned to Nairobi today. The 2 places are SO different - Mombasa is on the coast but it is outrageously humid and hot (also extremely rainy - poured every day) with crazy amounts of mosquitoes and 'wildlife'. I use inverted commas as I don't count frogs and giant cockroaches as wildlife, just skanks. We stayed with a lovely lady named Asha, who has a spacious house (with real flooring which we were excited about) although no furniture. She cooked incredible meals - fried fish, green banana, pilau rice and amazing breakfasts of pancakes and chipattis, and an incredible hot milky tea with ginger, black pepper and mounds of sugar. OMNOMONOM. The town we stayed in is remote - you have to walk on dirt tracks through jungle like villages with houses made of mud and sticks for a good 30mins before you reach an actual paved road. Nairobi is a lot busier and built up, and there is the saviour that is 'Junction' - a shopping mall about 20mins away which is reachable via matatu. Mombasa is about an hour away from anything like that. Whilst we were in Mombasa we visited women and children suffering with HIV/AIDS in their homes and attended support groups. Defiantly some of the most difficult things I've ever had to witness.

Exert from Day 12

'We set out in the pouring rain and extreme mud to visit women from the HIV programme, just to check up on them, give them company, record their progression. The stigma attached to HIV is so outrageous that most women have been abandoned by their loved ones and left alone. People don't want to be near them, not even their family, as they believe you have been cursed by the devil if you are infected. They are therefore extremely appreciative of any company they get and were eternally grateful to have visitors.

Edu, the guy that runs the programme visits them every week, gives them food portions and records their progress. He has dedicated every day of his life to helping these women and improving their lifestyle - Char and I were in shock at how anyone could be so selfless and compassionate. Incredible man. We went round with Edu to the different women's houses (walked for hours and hours to each house in the rain!) and attended support groups where we shared stories and gave ideas. In the end we gave a large donation to Edu (to those who sponsored us, your money will go SO far, so thankyou) which goes towards medication, transport to hospitals - some of them have to walk for HOURS to get to the nearest hospital, and also the feeding programme. The problem is, whilst HIV drugs are free here, the diseases that come with it, such as TB as well as terrible side affects, are very expensive and difficult to get hold of.

I don't have time to share all of the women here on my blog however I can share one case that has stuck in my mind all week. Her name is Rebecca, a young woman of 25 who is suffering with HIV/AIDS. She has sores on her lips which look extremely painful, and apparently have spread down her throat and into her chest, and is most likely cancer. Rebecca used to live with her family and husband, but once she was diagnosed with HIV her husband ran away, and her mother banished her from the house. She now sleeps, eats, and lives in the cold, damp hallway of her mothers house. Her mother will not let her in the house or feed her. If Rebecca uses a plate or mug, her mother throws it out in disgust. Edu tells us that her mother is planning on chasing her out for good - the only reason she hasn't already is because she doesn't want the neighbours to talk. Rebecca, who is suffering from severe head and chest pains as well as her mouth sores, is in extreme need of care yet she is completely alone. She has 2 children, who love her, but they live in the house with the mother. She only eats when friends occasionally bring her meals. The only time her mother speaks to her is when she is blaming her and hurling abuse at how embarrassing and disgraceful she is! It's one thing reading this, but experiencing it in real life is just something else. Never in my life have I been so outraged and heartbroken, seeing Rebecca sitting there in the cold wet hallway of a tin house - the blood rushed to my head and my eyes filled with tears. Edu told us that her awful mother pretends to be nice to neighbours and visitors about Rebecca, but behind closed doors is a different story. When we arrived, the mother came to meet us and started ranting in Swahili - obviously we couldn't understand but from her foul tone I knew exactly what she was saying. Edu translated that she was lying about Rebecca - saying she doesn't feed her because shes too fussy with food. Ridiculous statement, Rebecca's condition means she can only eat soft foods. As her mother continued to rant, I looked at Rebecca who sat huddled in a chair,defeated and covering her mouth with a cloth in embarrassment and shame. She could hardly speak! The heartbreaking thing about this story is that there is very little we can do - Edu brings her food but her mother demands it and steals it from her. Rebecca has no money to move out, and even if she did she can't live alone as she needs to be looked after. We don't have many options, which is the most gutwrenching thing...

We saw many women that day with similar stories - all of their husbands had either left them or died of HIV themselves, all with equally emotional stories. After attending the support groups however, we hit  a  more positive note. The women all come together twice a week to share stories, socialise and give each other support, which was lovely to see such an amazing sense of community. They were all so so grateful and thankful to have us there, I felt almost unworthy of they're appreciation! '

Char and I are talking about organising a big fundraiser, to raise money so that we can potentially help women like Rebecca have a place to go to along with all the other women,  so that they are not alone. W a t c h  t h i s  s p a c e.

I have written about 100 pages but don't have time or power to write everything up, I assure you what I am posting is a TINY portion of what we have been experiencing out here. Tomorrow we are going on Safari for 4 days which we are very excited about! Then volunteering with street kids. So I'm sure I'll have lots to update you on very soon!

Lots of love xxx